Scottish Standout

Whew, like many of you, I have been running around like crazy trying to complete my laundry list of holiday activities. In between writing cards, shopping, wrapping, working, attending parties, hosting guests, and a myriad of other time-occupiers, I've somehow come up with some more helpful tips. Attending all these parties has made me realize that perhaps some of you could use a little refresher on what to wear to a holiday-themed event.

The end goal of your festive ensemble should be to evoke holiday cheer without looking like a plastic lawn ornament. Unless your party tells you to come dressed with tacky reindeer horns attached to a velvet headband, please refrain. Instead, reflect the Christmas season with a little tartan. Now, I started to look around for reasons why tartans have become a winter wonderland staple, but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Instead of sharing the history, let's just focus on some various ways to work in these festive patterns.

There are quite a few holiday tartans, so you can find colors to work with just about anything that you have in your closet already. The most classic of checks usually focus on a green or red base, but don't feel limited by these constraints. For example, the Black Watch tartan is a very muted pattern that is often considered to be acceptable in some formal situations which makes it a great jumping off platform for the holiday season. You don't have to start with a plaid tux jacket, but you might work it in subtly, for instance with knee high socks (for females), a pocket square (for men), or a tie (for either).

For a little bit bolder of a choice you can start to mix in the rich reds of a Stuart Tartan or a Buffalo Check. These will certainly make you stand out, but if successfully executed will make you the buzz of the party. When going for a statement piece try to keep the rest of your ensemble understated.

Final Verdict: Remember to not overdo it. Be more like the Mona Lisa, in that people just like looking at you but they really can't put their finger on why.

All Tied Up

So for all of you out there in reading land who wondered where I went for 4 days, I was working on the next batch of rakish articles. Fresh off the press we have an article about the dress shirt. Strike that, the dress shirt actually has a very minimal role to play in this post. I am more concerned with pairing it with its eternal mate: the tie. Personally, I really don't understand why this is such a hard concept, but what I have noticed over the last 5 years or so is that men (and even about 50% of women) seem to have difficulty blending the two. Of course, I'm not talking about pairing a basic tie with a solid shirt. I am referring to matching patterned shirts with patterned ties. This can be anything from stripes on stripes to matching a wide checked shirt with a smaller checked tie. In general, the main concept that you have to consider when matching is the rule of 3. This simply refers to the fact that 2 out of 3 things that you are wearing can be the same pattern. For example: if you are wearing a pinstriped suit. then either your tie or your shirt can be striped, but not both. When it comes to patterns, you want to watch that the patterns aren't too similar in size. This goes with stripes as well. The stripe widths need to be different or it looks too much like you cut a piece of your tie/shirt/suit and made the other striped piece. For checks on checks, I often opt for a large box check for the shirt and use a smaller pattern for the tie. Sometimes it is nice to mix up the direction of the checks as well. A small diamond shape on the basic windowpane is a nice classic look.

If you really have a lot of trouble with the matching, pick up a magazine and cut out the pictures that you like and use them for shopping. In a 2008 interview with the CEO of Armani, one of the main things talked about was how he found it ridiculous that men refused to use their resources for shopping. There is nothing wrong with taking your favorite advertisements and trying to replicate them within your wardrobe. I know you love Michael Bay, but those Victoria's Secret ads aren't going to help you become better dressed... just put those back. Another helpful tip is to find a sales associate who seems to be very knowledgeable and take their advice... unless of course you hate what they are wearing. When worse comes to worse, just shop off the mannequins. They are probably "store set" which means that they were picked out by people with a degree in visuals or who at least seem to have "good taste."

Finally, what is the deal with men only knowing how to tie one knot? Are you kidding me? Every man should learn how to tie, at the bare minimum, the basic three knots. Each has a different time to be used. I've found that most men learned how to tie the only knot that they know from their father. There is nothing wrong with that, but one knot doesn't fit every situation. Oh, and if you are the kind of man that leaves your tie tied when you are not wearing it, please stop. For the love of all that is good in this world of fashion, please stop. All that does is press permanent wrinkles into the tie. So back to the knots...the first knot that we come to is the four-in-hand. This is the simplest of options and leaves the smallest result. It is used with forward point and button down shirts. Next we come to the half-windsor. This is the lazy brother of the Windsor knot but works well when the larger knot just doesn't seem to fit. Finally, the full windsor knot (named after the Duke of Windsor) is the most elegant knot and, as consequence, the most formal. Regardless of what type of knot you tie, the dimple must be present in the tie just below the base of the knot. This "crease" should be centered and pulled tight.

Final Verdict: no excuses... master a couple knot variations. Once you have that down, try being more creative with your shirt/tie combinations. You may ask why, but I need go no further than the words of ZZ Top: every girl's crazy about a sharp-dressed man.

The Art of James Bond

Suave: having a sophisticated charm, smoothly agreeable, and smugly convinced of their respectability. What an absolutely wonderful word. It is something that everyone should strive towards. Few men in our day have mastered the art of being completely debonair. When you have achieved this rakish element, women melt at the mere sound of your voice. Being handsome/well dressed usually goes along with this attribute, which is why I've decided to talk about it. Personally, I think that being suave is most simply broken down into two parts: wit and confidence. It is about knowing when to say something and knowing that when you say it that you are going to get a preset response, thus you are never off your game. Recently I decided to take it upon myself to help a fellow worker out with his suavity due to his complete lack thereof. His personality is amazingly agreeable, but the charm factor was just lacking a little bit. We began by talking about a specific situation where he struggled to find the correct words to use. By going back over the situation and presenting other alternatives he is now equipped if another situation should present itself. Being charming to the opposite sex is something that is not innate in most men, so it is a skill that needs to be honed and practiced until the desired outcome is achieved.

Final Verdict: get out and practice this lost skill and you may be surprised by where it can take you...items off your dinner receipt, good customer service, or just plenty of smiles.

Something A Little Different

Most of the time when I am talking about shoes for the female sex, I tend to recommend footwear with a heel over 3.5". I do this mainly because they are the sexiest option, but every once in a while a flat option comes around that I find worthy of my stamp of approval. These boots by Loeffler Randall have earned that high honor. These fantastic combat boots would look amazing with anything from jeans to a plaid dress. They work perfectly with the hues this fall/winter, yet their classic design will allow them to be fitting year after year.

Much like my last designer recommendation, Simon Spurr, this is a young brand. The label was created by Jessie Randall when she couldn't seem to find the exact boots she wanted to own. She must have been onto something because in 2007 she won the CDFA award for accessories, and then in 2009 Loeffler Randall was named by Inc. Magazine as one of the top 500 fastest growing private companies.

Final Verdict: If you are in the mood for a new yet respected brand, give these boots a whirl.

Suit Obsession

Every once in a blue moon a menswear designer comes out that just nails the rakish elegance of the male ensemble. These designers can do for the male frame what Valentino or Carolina Herrera can do for the female silhouette. My latest designer obsession is the inspired Simon Spurr.

Simon, originally from Kent England, worked his way up in the industry until he was recruited to be Design Director for Ralph Lauren Black and Purple labels. After a few years of working for Ralph he launched his own denim line, before branching out to a broader range in 2007.

Final Verdict: His designs are amazing, and to top it all off, he's a really down-to-earth and pleasant guy in person.

On A Quest

Now that Santa has closed out the famous Thanksgiving Macy's parade, the holiday season has begun. Every store under the planet is ready to bombard you with shopping incentives, gift wrappings, and the smell of cranberry and cookies. In all the flurry you have to find time to go out and get that tree for your place. If you are one of those pathetic souls that has a pre-decorated trees in a box waiting in storage you might as well stop reading now. I'm talking to those out there that must embark on the quest for the perfect tree, much like the Griswolds in Christmas Vacation.

Now, just because you don't have a designer axe and amazing leather sling like the one above from Best Made Company, this doesn't mean that you still can't dress the part. Whether you are going out to chop down your evergreen or just going to find your ideal tree at a local lot, you should still aspire to channel your inner woodsman. The key is to look like you could be going out into the great unknown, or perhaps just came back from there.

Starting from the bottom, you should begin with boots. The below Paul Smith Fremont oakwood suede pair should do the trick, although most lace-up versions would work. Don't forget to throw some heavy socks underneath. The camp socks from J.Crew should do nicely.

Following with the outdoor trend, denim pants should be a no-brainer. Perhaps something by Levi's, now that they are offering a selection of fits and washes to suit just about any desire you may have. Also, they have created partnerships with many retailers out there, so you can find their wares at everywhere from Macy's to Brooks Brothers.

Moving upward, we come to the torso. The obvious choice is some sort of a flannel shirt which you can layer over anything from chest hair to a heather waffle t-shirt. For a lower price option peruse the wares at Urban Outfitters, or for a more vintage feel locate the nearest Double RL store. In fact, I think you could get just about every item needed for your entire wardrobe at Double RL, but you may go broke in the process.

Finally, we come to the outerwear and cold weather accessories. The jacket is a key part of the entire outfit; and you don't want it to look too dressy. This gorgeous Trailmaster Replica Evolution jacket by Belstaff fits the bill. As for the cold weather accessories, Rag & Bone has some great options, including these Knightsbridge Patch mittens that will keep your fingers toasty, while still allowing the tactile dexterity of touchscreen texting.

Final Verdict: You only get an excuse to dress like a mountain man a few times a year, so embrace this glorious time of year and make your fellow men proud.

Missed the Sales?

Congratulations to all of you who went out and braved the shopping fury of Black Friday. The northeast was especially nasty outside with low temperatures and a mixed bag of precipitations. Perhaps the forces of nature kept you inside, and you did some of your gift getting without ever having to take off your flannel pants or put down that mug of fresh coffee. Now let's say that you couldn't seem to shake the tryptophan hangover and missed the day of sales. Is all lost for you? Of course not! Who can forget about Cyber Monday?

Cyber Monday? What is that? Well, faithful reader, it started when online retailers started to notice a high uptick in sales on the Monday after Black Friday. They realized that there were those out there that just couldn't get around to shopping in the days earlier and then would use that first day back to work to shop from their desks at work or home. In order to capitalize on these eager shoppers, many retailers extend their sales to Monday and few even offer exclusive deals.

Final Verdict: Take advantage of the extended sales to pick up those items that you may have been mulling over in your mind and just couldn't bring yourself to pull the trigger on early Friday morning.

Last Minute Ideas

So, we are getting down to the wire for Black Friday and you are probably putting the finishing touches on the planned assault for the shopping center you've singled out. Or maybe you are trying to figure out which online sites you want to tackle first in order to make sure you get the products you want before you see the cursed ON BACKORDER tag next to it. Allow me to share with you a few of my last minute picks before the big game. Who knows, you may want to rewrite your playbook before the midnight kickoff.

Let's start with universal gifts. These could be for either sex and whichever gets it, the other will most likely attempt to steal and use constantly.

Mini Gladstone Bag by Rag & Bone

All Leather Safari Bag by Mulholland Leather

Zip-Top Crocodile Duffle by Santiago Gonzalez

Canvas and Leather Satchel by Rugby

Next, we can move onto those male gifts. There is always something awesome out there for your guy, so use these as inspiration.

Rustic Wool Hooded Sweater by Ralph Lauren

Wool/Cashmere Houndstooth Sport Coat by Brooks Brothers

Basically Anything by Tom Ford

A Personalized Signed Copy of Russell James V2 (available on his site)

Finally, we come to the female gifts. Men, women want you to spend time thinking about the gift that you get them. When in doubt buy smaller... the "oh, I could have sworn you were a 4... you're so skinny" always wins you points.

Lace-Up Grey Bootie by Christian Louboutin

Double Breasted Wool Coat With Hood from Zara

Anything by Kiki De Montparnasse

Most Cardigans by J.Crew

Final Verdict: These are just a couple of additional hints that may help you out for your shopping day.

76 Trombones...

Sure, it maybe looks a little like something off the set of The Music Man, but I love this women's military jacket from the Ralph Lauren Collection line. It's flashy, well-tailored, and a smidge impractical... all reasons to get my stamp of approval.

Final Verdict: If you have an extra $3,500 just lying around, why not give it a shot? I mean, I'd comment on it if I saw you at a party.

That Natural Slope

There are a few things that look exceptionally good on most men, one of which is a well-fitted suit. However, as you can imagine, a suit can be a difficult gift to buy your man without a slew of measurements. If you know his inseam, chest, waist, overarm, outseam and preferred drop then by all means, go suit shopping. Sound like too much work? I have a different suggestion: the shawl neck sweater.

Essentially, the shawl collar got its start from the Victorian smoking jacket as a way to combine the collar and the lapels in a seamless fashion that was both flattering and new. One of the things that I love about this style is how it gives your shoulders that natural slope. This would be especially helpful for those men who have square shoulders and find unstructured jackets to be unflattering. The v-neckline in the front also keeps the thicker collar from overpowering your look, and even gives room for a flash of a tie if you are so inclined.

Final Verdict: Almost every retailer carries this style, so you should be able to find one in your shopping price point. For a fashion-forward take, look for the novelty (a.k.a. Aspen ski sweater) patterns.

Now With More Twitter

It's official! Rakish Dishevelment is now on Twitter. Follow me at: @Dageus_McKelter

Final Verdict: For fashion thoughts and different pics, follow me on Twitter.

Go Go Gadget

Timeless: a word used to describe something that has transcended the ability to be dated. When you use that word in reference to women, you may conjure up thoughts of Sophia Loren, or perhaps Audrey Hepburn. In fact, that very descriptive has been ranked as one of the top adjectives that a women would like to be called when her date is complimenting her beauty. If she desires for her look to be timeless, wouldn't it stand to reason that you should look to purchase her something that is equally so? Sure, a diamond is forever, but they are also ridiculously expensive. How about we shoot for something under $1000? And with that, we are onto my third gift idea for the season: the trench coat.

Burberry has been associated with the trench coat name since the early 1900's and even more so after the second World War. This amazing brand has made a name for themselves, but why not get your lady something that is a little bit less brand-noticeable? Their trademark check is plastered on almost everything they do, thus allowing the coat to subconsciously "name drop" for you. (Also, most Burberry trenches start over the $1000 limit I set earlier). Instead, why not try one of the timeless trenches by Gryphon?

Aimee Cho is a former fashion writer for Vogue magazine who realized that the chic trench coat needed a mid-price point option for fashion savvy shoppers. Many other items like a classic tee shirt, perfect denim, and even cashmere sweaters had a variety of tiers out in the market to fit the pocketbook of most shoppers. The trench, however, seemed to be missing the high quality, mid-priced option. It was upon this revelation that Aimee started Gryphon New York. In a short amount of time, Gryphon has become a favorite with celebrities, fashion magazines, and retailers.

Final Verdict: Gryphon's flirty, yet classic take on this coat is well worth the price. And if properly cared for, your coat will be timeless as well. For a cheaper option try the shorter "mini trench" pictured above.

Sparkling Scavengers

Women and crows actually share a lot in common. You didn’t know that did you? They are both very intelligent, both have complex vocalization that is not well understood by man but understood by their brethren, and they both love shiny objects. This, of course, brings us to the second recommendation from yours truly at Rakish Dishevelment for the lovely siren in your life this Christmas season: jewelry. Sure, that is a vague answer, but let me focus it a little bit better for you. More specifically I am talking about Azaara jewelry.

Designer Josef Arzili is the mastermind behind this gorgeous brand hailing from Los Angeles, California. Arzili began his studies at the Fashion Institute of Hamburg, Germany over 30 years ago. It wasn’t until fall 2001, though, that he created his first line of jewelry called the Vintage Crystal Collection. Over the years, he has added new and exciting lines to his company, featuring everything from enamel to precious stones. The beautiful thing about his line is that many of the pieces are affordable yet high in quality, winning you points for both style and frugality. Each piece looks like a rare estate item once belonging to an elegant duchess, which is how she will feel when she opens it up.

Final Verdict: When buying a ring make sure that you know her size. You wouldn’t want her excitement to be diminished by the fact that she has to mail it back and get the next size in 4-6 weeks. Also, pick up a jewelry box to put it in. It makes more of a statement. Do that, and the only sound you hear after the creak of the box opening will be a gasp.