Monday, November 29, 2010

Suit Obsession

Every once in a blue moon a menswear designer comes out that just nails the rakish elegance of the male ensemble. These designers can do for the male frame what Valentino or Carolina Herrera can do for the female silhouette. My latest designer obsession is the inspired Simon Spurr.

Simon, originally from Kent England, worked his way up in the industry until he was recruited to be Design Director for Ralph Lauren Black and Purple labels. After a few years of working for Ralph he launched his own denim line, before branching out to a broader range in 2007.

Final Verdict: His designs are amazing, and to top it all off, he's a really down-to-earth and pleasant guy in person.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

On A Quest

Now that Santa has closed out the famous Thanksgiving Macy's parade, the holiday season has begun. Every store under the planet is ready to bombard you with shopping incentives, gift wrappings, and the smell of cranberry and cookies. In all the flurry you have to find time to go out and get that tree for your place. If you are one of those pathetic souls that has a pre-decorated trees in a box waiting in storage you might as well stop reading now. I'm talking to those out there that must embark on the quest for the perfect tree, much like the Griswolds in Christmas Vacation.

Now, just because you don't have a designer axe and amazing leather sling like the one above from Best Made Company, this doesn't mean that you still can't dress the part. Whether you are going out to chop down your evergreen or just going to find your ideal tree at a local lot, you should still aspire to channel your inner woodsman. The key is to look like you could be going out into the great unknown, or perhaps just came back from there.

Starting from the bottom, you should begin with boots. The below Paul Smith Fremont oakwood suede pair should do the trick, although most lace-up versions would work. Don't forget to throw some heavy socks underneath. The camp socks from J.Crew should do nicely.

Following with the outdoor trend, denim pants should be a no-brainer. Perhaps something by Levi's, now that they are offering a selection of fits and washes to suit just about any desire you may have. Also, they have created partnerships with many retailers out there, so you can find their wares at everywhere from Macy's to Brooks Brothers.

Moving upward, we come to the torso. The obvious choice is some sort of a flannel shirt which you can layer over anything from chest hair to a heather waffle t-shirt. For a lower price option peruse the wares at Urban Outfitters, or for a more vintage feel locate the nearest Double RL store. In fact, I think you could get just about every item needed for your entire wardrobe at Double RL, but you may go broke in the process.

Finally, we come to the outerwear and cold weather accessories. The jacket is a key part of the entire outfit; and you don't want it to look too dressy. This gorgeous Trailmaster Replica Evolution jacket by Belstaff fits the bill. As for the cold weather accessories, Rag & Bone has some great options, including these Knightsbridge Patch mittens that will keep your fingers toasty, while still allowing the tactile dexterity of touchscreen texting.

Final Verdict: You only get an excuse to dress like a mountain man a few times a year, so embrace this glorious time of year and make your fellow men proud.

Friday, November 26, 2010

Missed the Sales?

Congratulations to all of you who went out and braved the shopping fury of Black Friday. The northeast was especially nasty outside with low temperatures and a mixed bag of precipitations. Perhaps the forces of nature kept you inside, and you did some of your gift getting without ever having to take off your flannel pants or put down that mug of fresh coffee. Now let's say that you couldn't seem to shake the tryptophan hangover and missed the day of sales. Is all lost for you? Of course not! Who can forget about Cyber Monday?

Cyber Monday? What is that? Well, faithful reader, it started when online retailers started to notice a high uptick in sales on the Monday after Black Friday. They realized that there were those out there that just couldn't get around to shopping in the days earlier and then would use that first day back to work to shop from their desks at work or home. In order to capitalize on these eager shoppers, many retailers extend their sales to Monday and few even offer exclusive deals.

Final Verdict: Take advantage of the extended sales to pick up those items that you may have been mulling over in your mind and just couldn't bring yourself to pull the trigger on early Friday morning.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Last Minute Ideas

So, we are getting down to the wire for Black Friday and you are probably putting the finishing touches on the planned assault for the shopping center you've singled out. Or maybe you are trying to figure out which online sites you want to tackle first in order to make sure you get the products you want before you see the cursed ON BACKORDER tag next to it. Allow me to share with you a few of my last minute picks before the big game. Who knows, you may want to rewrite your playbook before the midnight kickoff.

Let's start with universal gifts. These could be for either sex and whichever gets it, the other will most likely attempt to steal and use constantly.

Mini Gladstone Bag by Rag & Bone

All Leather Safari Bag by Mulholland Leather

Zip-Top Crocodile Duffle by Santiago Gonzalez

Canvas and Leather Satchel by Rugby

Next, we can move onto those male gifts. There is always something awesome out there for your guy, so use these as inspiration.

Rustic Wool Hooded Sweater by Ralph Lauren

Wool/Cashmere Houndstooth Sport Coat by Brooks Brothers

Basically Anything by Tom Ford

A Personalized Signed Copy of Russell James V2 (available on his site)

Finally, we come to the female gifts. Men, women want you to spend time thinking about the gift that you get them. When in doubt buy smaller... the "oh, I could have sworn you were a 4... you're so skinny" always wins you points.

Lace-Up Grey Bootie by Christian Louboutin

Double Breasted Wool Coat With Hood from Zara

Anything by Kiki De Montparnasse

Most Cardigans by J.Crew

Final Verdict: These are just a couple of additional hints that may help you out for your shopping day.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

76 Trombones...

Sure, it maybe looks a little like something off the set of The Music Man, but I love this women's military jacket from the Ralph Lauren Collection line. It's flashy, well-tailored, and a smidge impractical... all reasons to get my stamp of approval.

Final Verdict: If you have an extra $3,500 just lying around, why not give it a shot? I mean, I'd comment on it if I saw you at a party.

That Natural Slope

There are a few things that look exceptionally good on most men, one of which is a well-fitted suit. However, as you can imagine, a suit can be a difficult gift to buy your man without a slew of measurements. If you know his inseam, chest, waist, overarm, outseam and preferred drop then by all means, go suit shopping. Sound like too much work? I have a different suggestion: the shawl neck sweater.

Essentially, the shawl collar got its start from the Victorian smoking jacket as a way to combine the collar and the lapels in a seamless fashion that was both flattering and new. One of the things that I love about this style is how it gives your shoulders that natural slope. This would be especially helpful for those men who have square shoulders and find unstructured jackets to be unflattering. The v-neckline in the front also keeps the thicker collar from overpowering your look, and even gives room for a flash of a tie if you are so inclined.

Final Verdict: Almost every retailer carries this style, so you should be able to find one in your shopping price point. For a fashion-forward take, look for the novelty (a.k.a. Aspen ski sweater) patterns.

Now With More Twitter

It's official! Rakish Dishevelment is now on Twitter. Follow me at: @Dageus_McKelter

Final Verdict: For fashion thoughts and different pics, follow me on Twitter.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Go Go Gadget

Timeless: a word used to describe something that has transcended the ability to be dated. When you use that word in reference to women, you may conjure up thoughts of Sophia Loren, or perhaps Audrey Hepburn. In fact, that very descriptive has been ranked as one of the top adjectives that a women would like to be called when her date is complimenting her beauty. If she desires for her look to be timeless, wouldn't it stand to reason that you should look to purchase her something that is equally so? Sure, a diamond is forever, but they are also ridiculously expensive. How about we shoot for something under $1000? And with that, we are onto my third gift idea for the season: the trench coat.

Burberry has been associated with the trench coat name since the early 1900's and even more so after the second World War. This amazing brand has made a name for themselves, but why not get your lady something that is a little bit less brand-noticeable? Their trademark check is plastered on almost everything they do, thus allowing the coat to subconsciously "name drop" for you. (Also, most Burberry trenches start over the $1000 limit I set earlier). Instead, why not try one of the timeless trenches by Gryphon?

Aimee Cho is a former fashion writer for Vogue magazine who realized that the chic trench coat needed a mid-price point option for fashion savvy shoppers. Many other items like a classic tee shirt, perfect denim, and even cashmere sweaters had a variety of tiers out in the market to fit the pocketbook of most shoppers. The trench, however, seemed to be missing the high quality, mid-priced option. It was upon this revelation that Aimee started Gryphon New York. In a short amount of time, Gryphon has become a favorite with celebrities, fashion magazines, and retailers.

Final Verdict: Gryphon's flirty, yet classic take on this coat is well worth the price. And if properly cared for, your coat will be timeless as well. For a cheaper option try the shorter "mini trench" pictured above.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Sparkling Scavengers

Women and crows actually share a lot in common. You didn’t know that did you? They are both very intelligent, both have complex vocalization that is not well understood by man but understood by their brethren, and they both love shiny objects. This, of course, brings us to the second recommendation from yours truly at Rakish Dishevelment for the lovely siren in your life this Christmas season: jewelry. Sure, that is a vague answer, but let me focus it a little bit better for you. More specifically I am talking about Azaara jewelry.

Designer Josef Arzili is the mastermind behind this gorgeous brand hailing from Los Angeles, California. Arzili began his studies at the Fashion Institute of Hamburg, Germany over 30 years ago. It wasn’t until fall 2001, though, that he created his first line of jewelry called the Vintage Crystal Collection. Over the years, he has added new and exciting lines to his company, featuring everything from enamel to precious stones. The beautiful thing about his line is that many of the pieces are affordable yet high in quality, winning you points for both style and frugality. Each piece looks like a rare estate item once belonging to an elegant duchess, which is how she will feel when she opens it up.

Final Verdict: When buying a ring make sure that you know her size. You wouldn’t want her excitement to be diminished by the fact that she has to mail it back and get the next size in 4-6 weeks. Also, pick up a jewelry box to put it in. It makes more of a statement. Do that, and the only sound you hear after the creak of the box opening will be a gasp.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Ankle Rebellion

In the spring of 2006, two longtime friends decided that they wanted to form a brand that encapsulated their satirical style. They wanted to take classic English and American staples and infuse them with wit and humor while still keeping them distinctively stylish. How better to do this than with the brand logo? And with that simple act, Psycho Bunny was born.

Ladies, in our second installment for the perfect male gift this holiday season I'd like to focus on one aspect of this luxurious label: socks.

One of the classic gifts for men over the years (especially for fathers) has been new socks. I remember many years growing up where my father used to tell us that the only thing he really wanted was these feet warmers because he had everything he needed. Well, you can still give him that gift, but why not do it with a little bit of flair. Statement socks are an easy way to spruce up a wardrobe but few men really splurge on good hosiery. The humorous skull and crossbones bunny is sure to get a smile. It's kind of like tricking him into feet luxury.

Final Verdict: I'm not saying you have to get him the whole set, but maybe one or two pair would be a fun way to start his collection.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Hooded Tartan

So fellas, you may be wondering why I helped the ladies out with a gift idea for their man but left you hanging. Truth be told, I was only keeping you in suspense. And now... drum roll please. We have the first holiday gift idea brought to you by the style experts here at Rakish Dishevelment: the wool plaid hooded cardigan by Ralph Lauren Rugby. The instant I saw this item I immediately fell in love with it. It could be the fact that it has a similar look to the cocoon jacket shown as part of the last look in the Ralph Lauren Fall 2010 show, or just the fact that it comes in two amazing plaid options. The $198 price point shouldn't sway you, as all RL brands tend to be driven by promotions. If this is something you are "sale stalking," try shopping online early Black Friday morning.

Final Verdict: I included the pic from the Fall 2010 show to give you a point of reference. If you need a little bit more nudging, consider that the Rugby version is 1/10th the price.

Monday, November 15, 2010

When to Not Leave The Tip

More so than other years, I have noticed a market saturation in the fingerless glove sector. Whether this is directly due to the uptick in touch sensitive phones, or just due to the fact that it is a great look, I don't really care. I'm a fan, but one could easily get lost in the sea of hobo gloves, so allow me to be your market guide.

When searching for a pair of gloves sans tips, you should first determine what type you are searching out. After you limit that down you can decide what fabric you are seeking. There are really 3 distinctly different factions for this trend. The first section would be the basic, normal-length fingerless glove. These tend to come in fabric styles only, although you could find the occasional pair with leather gripping on the palm side. Men should stick with styles that only come up to the wrist, and not over. Otherwise, you risk looking like you purchased a pair of ladies' gloves. Speaking of which, ladies are able to choose just about any length they wish and look "on point." When picking a fabric, I would stick with your basic wool or wool blends. No sense shelling out for cashmere when it is heat-wise impractical.

The next style we have only applies to women, and this would be the arm warmers. These are basically a lengthened version of the styles above. One of the most popular of this genre would be the cable knit, although you can find anything down to the pointelle metallic weave from Ralph Lauren Rugby. Feel free to upgrade to a higher quality fabric for these arm sheaths as the fibers will be covering more of your skin. For a cheaper option than cashmere, look for something that uses alpaca or angora. If you are in the mood to shell out the cash for cashmere, try checking out Qi, White + Warren, or Portolano.

The last category would be the fingerless driving glove. 95% of these are made in only leather, although you may run into the occasional fabric piece, perhaps in a lace. These are yet again a primarily female accessory, although it wouldn't be unheard of to have them available for men. I would encourage you, men, that if you are interested in the driving glove style to just pay a little extra for the tips. You want to look sophisticated, not like you just left the gym... unless of course your name is Karl Lagerfeld, in which case you can do whatever you want. For women, it gives your outfit a little bit of an edge AND they tend to come in a greater variance of color options. Try something bright to make them stand out.

Final Verdict: Most retailers are carrying these this season. You can find anything from a $4.95 pair at H&M, up to the gorgeous Gucci or Ralph Lauren ones above. Whatever your budget, this is a trend worth trying.